Day 1 in Ipoh: A Journey Through History, Heritage, and Entrepreneurship
Our first day in Ipoh was nothing short of a historical and cultural deep dive, taking us from the charming Concubine Lane to the Ho Yan Hor Museum, where we learned about the inspiring journey of Dr. Ho Kai Cheong, before delving into the hidden world of Han Chin Pet Soo Museum, an exclusive tin miner’s club that revealed the vices that once dominated this city.
Concubine Lane: A Living Legacy of Ipoh’s Past
The day began with a stroll through Concubine Lane, one of Ipoh’s most famous heritage streets. This lane, along with Wife Lane and First Concubine Lane, was once part of a bustling social scene built during the tin mining boom in the late 19th century. Wealthy tin tycoons gifted these lanes to their wives and concubines, and the area quickly became known for its entertainment, opulent lifestyle, and hidden scandals.
Today, Concubine Lane is alive with vintage shophouses, colorful street art, and charming cafés, a testament to Ipoh’s ability to preserve its history while embracing modernity. As we wandered through, we were drawn to the Ho Yan Hor Museum, where an extraordinary story awaited.
Ho Yan Hor Museum: The Remarkable Journey of Dr. Ho Kai Cheong
The Ho Yan Hor Museum stands as a tribute to Dr. Ho Kai Cheong, a man who transformed his modest tea stall into a global household brand. His journey was one of perseverance, wisdom, and innovation, inspired by both traditional Chinese medicine and modern entrepreneurship.
A Humble Beginning
Born into a humble family, Dr. Ho faced immense struggles in the early days of his career. He had a deep interest in herbal medicine, and during the Japanese occupation of Malaya in the 1940s, he noticed that many people were falling ill due to poor nutrition and lack of proper medication. This led him to develop a unique blend of herbal tea that could help restore health, reduce heatiness, and boost energy.
With just a small wooden stall on Treacher Street in Ipoh, he started selling Ho Yan Hor Herbal Tea, a cooling remedy made from a blend of 29 traditional herbs. The early days were tough—customers were unfamiliar with his tea, and he struggled to make ends meet.
The Power of Advice: Growing from Small to Big
"Start small, but always aim big. Expand only when you are ready."
This wisdom encouraged Dr. Ho to focus on quality, trust, and customer satisfaction. Slowly, word spread about his tea’s effectiveness, and demand grew.
Expanding to the World
By 1948, he relocated to a proper shop on Jalan Kangsar Road, and Ho Yan Hor Tea became a recognized brand. Over the next few decades, he expanded into Singapore, Thailand, and Hong Kong, eventually reaching the United States, United Kingdom, and New Zealand in the 1970s.
Even in his 90s, Dr. Ho remained committed to improving his herbal formulas, proving that passion and perseverance can turn a simple idea into a global success. His legacy continues today, with Ho Yan Hor tea still enjoyed worldwide.
Han Chin Pet Soo Museum: The Hidden World of the Tin Miners' Club
Leaving the Ho Yan Hor Museum, we ventured to the Han Chin Pet Soo Museum, housed in a restored 1893 building. This was once an exclusive Hakka tin miner’s club, accessible only to invited members.
What made this club unique was not just its exclusivity but also the dark secrets it held. The museum takes visitors on an immersive journey into the lives of tin miners, revealing both their struggles and the "Four Evils" that once dominated their world.
The Four Evils of Han Chin Pet Soo
-
Gambling
- A separate gambling hall inside the club catered to wealthy miners who sought to turn their fortune around with games of chance.
- Popular games included pai gow (Chinese dominoes) and mahjong, which often resulted in heavy debts that kept miners trapped in a cycle of financial instability.
-
Opium Smoking
- The club had an opium den, where miners would unwind after long, backbreaking shifts in the tin mines.
- Opium provided temporary relief from physical exhaustion, but addiction led to financial ruin and deteriorating health.
-
Prostitution
- Due to the male-dominated workforce, there was a high demand for prostitution, leading to the presence of pleasure dens in Ipoh’s mining quarters.
- Many women were trafficked or forced into these trades, creating a darker reality behind the city’s rapid economic growth.
-
Secret Societies (Triads)
- The tin mining industry was rife with triads who operated illegal protection rackets and controlled business deals.
- These secret societies regulated gambling, prostitution, and opium trade, often leading to gang conflicts and violent clashes over territory.
A Lesson from History
Visiting the Han Chin Pet Soo Museum was an eye-opener. It revealed the difficulties and temptations faced by tin miners, as well as the economic and social impact of the tin industry on Ipoh’s development.
Today, Ipoh has transformed from a mining hub into a peaceful retirement town, but the echoes of its past remain preserved in these museums, offering invaluable lessons for future generations.
Final Thoughts: A Day of Discovery and Reflection
Our first day in Ipoh was enlightening and enriching. From the bustling heritage streets of Concubine Lane to Dr. Ho Kai Cheong’s inspiring journey, and finally, into the hidden vices of the tin miners' club, we uncovered the layers of history that shaped this city.
As we walked back, the lingering aroma of Ipoh white coffee filled the air, reminding us that this city is more than just a historical landmark—it is a living testament to resilience, ambition, and transformation.
And with that, we eagerly looked forward to what the next day in Ipoh would bring.
Afternoon Adventures in Ipoh: From Culinary Delights to Gravity-Defying Fun
After an enlightening morning exploring Concubine Lane, the Ho Yan Hor Museum, and the Han Chin Pet Soo Museum, our afternoon took us on a different kind of adventure—one filled with culinary indulgence, unexpected discoveries, and playful stunts.
A Feast at Lou Wong: Chicken Feet & Legendary Bean Sprouts
Our first stop was Lou Wong, an iconic name in Ipoh’s food scene, renowned for its chicken rice, silky smooth poached chicken, and, of course, its famous bean sprouts.
This time, however, it was their chicken feet that stole the show. Warm, juicy, and expertly braised, each bite was an explosion of deep flavors, with the gelatinous texture melting in our mouths. It was easily one of the best chicken feet dishes we had ever tasted.
Then came Ipoh’s legendary bean sprouts—a humble yet extraordinary dish. These weren’t just any bean sprouts; they were fat, crunchy, and bursting with natural sweetness. Lightly seasoned and drizzled with soy sauce, they had the perfect balance of crunch and juiciness, making every bite a delight.
Satisfied and energized from our meal, we initially planned to explore the Ipoh Art Trail, a journey through the city’s vibrant street murals. But as we stepped outside, raindrops started to fall. The drizzle quickly turned into a light shower, forcing us to reconsider our plans.
A Lucky Find: Seeking Shelter in the Upside Down Museum
As we hurried along the streets, seeking shelter from the rain, we stumbled upon something unexpected—the Upside Down Museum. With the rain showing no signs of letting up, we decided, why not?
And what a choice it turned out to be!
The Upside Down Museum was more than just a quirky attraction—it was an interactive, mind-bending playground. The moment we stepped in, we found ourselves in a surreal world where furniture, appliances, and even entire rooms were flipped 180 degrees.
Anti-Gravity Stunts and Laughter-Filled Challenges
What made the experience even more fun was the helpful and enthusiastic photographer who guided us through the exhibits. She knew exactly how to pose us for the best optical illusions—directing us to twist our bodies, lift our legs, and strike impossible poses that, in the final photos, would make it look as though we were defying gravity.
Each room brought a new challenge, and we eagerly took on every stunt and pose she suggested. From pretending to dangle from the ceiling to "walking on walls," we embraced the silliness and had a blast.
We explored 16 different rooms, each uniquely designed to challenge our perception. By the end of it, we were sore, tired, but filled with laughter and joy. My wife, especially, was absolutely delighted—and for me, that was the most important part of the day.
Cooling Down with Cendol and Exploring Ipoh’s Landmarks
After all that excitement, we needed something to cool off and recharge. What better than a refreshing bowl of Cendol?
Sitting down with our icy, sweet dessert, we enjoyed the perfect combination of coconut milk, pandan-flavored jelly, and gula Melaka syrup. It was the perfect treat after all that movement and fun.
Refreshed, we set off to find the Birch Memorial Clock Tower, an important historical landmark in Ipoh. The tower, built in 1909, stands as a tribute to James W.W. Birch, the first British Resident of Perak. With its intricate carvings and historical significance, it was a fascinating glimpse into Ipoh’s colonial past.
From there, we made our way to the Ipoh Railway Station, an architectural gem that locals often call the "Taj Mahal of Ipoh". The grand, whitewashed colonial-era structure stood proudly, a testament to Ipoh’s days as a booming mining town. While there, we also purchased train tickets for our journey on March 13th, securing our next adventure.
A Quiet Dinner at Plan B
With the day winding down, we headed to Plan B for dinner. Unlike the bustling cafés we had visited earlier, Plan B was eerily quiet, with only a handful of diners. The peaceful atmosphere was a stark contrast to the vibrant energy of our afternoon, but it provided the perfect setting for us to unwind, reflect, and enjoy a relaxing meal.
After dinner, we made our way back to MU Hotel, where we could finally rest our sore legs and recharge for another exciting day ahead.
Final Thoughts: A Day of Unexpected Delights
What started as a simple afternoon of food and art exploration turned into a fun-filled, gravity-defying adventure. From the best chicken feet and bean sprouts at Lou Wong to unexpected stunts at the Upside Down Museum, and finally, a historic walk through Ipoh’s landmarks, the day was filled with surprises and moments of joy.
And most importantly, my wife was truly happy—making it all worth it.
As we drifted off to sleep, we couldn’t help but wonder—what new surprises would Ipoh bring us tomorrow?
Day 2: A Culinary and Cultural Journey Through Ipoh
Morning Delights: Dim Sum at the Doorstep
Our second day in Ipoh began with a delightful dim sum breakfast at a restaurant just outside MU Hotel. The meal was a perfect combination of light yet flavorful dishes, each prepared with precision and authenticity.
We enjoyed:
- Prawn Dumplings (Har Gow): Translucent wrappers encasing succulent prawns, offering a burst of freshness with each bite.
- Bean Curd Rolls (Fu Pei Guen): Crispy on the outside, with a savory filling that provided a satisfying contrast in textures.
- Fish Bao: Soft, fluffy buns filled with a delicate fish mixture, highlighting the subtle flavors of the sea.
- Shrimp Chee Cheong Fun: Silky rice noodle rolls enveloping tender shrimp, drizzled with a light soy sauce that enhanced its delicate taste.
Each bite was accompanied by warm, fragrant Chinese tea, completing the comforting morning ritual. With satisfied stomachs, we set off on our next adventure.
Strolling Through Ipoh's Artistic Avenues
After breakfast, we took a leisurely walk towards the renowned tea house, San Chen Cha Zhuang, and along the way, we discovered hidden artistic gems that added character to the city.
- Intricate Brick Paintings – These carefully crafted murals seamlessly blended with the urban landscape, offering an artistic touch to the historical streets.
- A Café with Health and Wellness Signage – We passed by an establishment that emphasized holistic well-being, with signboards promoting the benefits of a balanced lifestyle.
- A Traditional Signboard Maker – The craftsmanship of sign-making remains an artform here, preserving a fading but integral trade in local commerce.
These little finds made the journey to the tea house feel even more immersive, weaving past and present together in a way that only a city like Ipoh can.
An Immersive Experience at San Chen Cha Zhuang
Upon arriving at San Chen Cha Zhuang, we stepped into an oasis of tranquility. This legendary tea house, steeped in tradition, was more than just a place to buy tea—it was a gateway into the philosophy and craftsmanship of Chinese tea culture.
The setting was serene and intimate, with shelves neatly stacked with carefully sourced Pu'er, Oolong, and other premium teas. The owner, a dedicated tea master, welcomed us with warm hospitality and a wealth of knowledge about the different tea varieties.
We spent hours chatting, learning, and tasting the delicate brews, experiencing how the flavors evolved through multiple infusions. Each cup carried a story of the mountains, the leaves, and the time-honored techniques used to prepare them.
After an insightful session, we purchased a Pu'er tea to take home—a reminder of this peaceful and enriching morning.
Before we left, the tea master generously recommended a Teochew restaurant for lunch, known for its simple yet flavorful dishes that pair well with tea.
Lunch at Yew Ming: A Timeless Teochew Experience
Following the tea master's suggestion, we headed to Yew Ming, a humble Teochew restaurant known for its light yet flavorful dishes, perfect for those who appreciate simple, home-style cooking.
The restaurant had an aged, nostalgic atmosphere, with an unpretentious charm that only decades-old establishments can carry. Run by elderly waitresses and cooks, the place exuded a sense of warmth and familiarity, as though stepping into someone’s home for a meal.
The portions were modest—perfect for two people, especially for us at around 60 years old with smaller appetites.
Our lunch consisted of:
- Bean Sprout Fried with Salted Fish – A delightful combination of crunchy, fragrant bean sprouts paired with the rich umami of crispy salted fish. Simple yet addictive.
- Steamed Slices of Fish – Fresh, delicate fish steamed to perfection, drizzled with a light soy-based sauce that let the natural flavors shine.
- Stir-Fried Vegetables – A refreshing and lightly seasoned dish that balanced out the meal.
- Porridge and White Rice – True to Teochew tradition, the restaurant served both options, allowing diners to enjoy the meal in a comforting, home-style manner.
After lunch, we made our way to Concubine Street 2 to try the Cendol Bakar at Niang Republic. The combination of cool, creamy cendol with caramelized gula Melaka was an absolute delight.
After leaving a review on Google Maps, we were pleasantly surprised with a free Portuguese Egg Tart. The moment we took a bite, the fragrance of buttery pastry and creamy custard filled the air—it was so good that we immediately ordered another, for just RM4.40.
Feeling satisfied, we returned to the hotel to unload our tea purchases, as carrying them around the city was becoming too heavy. A quick wash-up and refresh later, we decided to continue our tea experience at Purple Cane Tea House.
Tea and Tranquility at Purple Cane Tea House
Purple Cane Tea House welcomed us with a peaceful, quiet environment, an ideal setting to unwind. We decided to rent a tea set and chose Lao Tien Hong tea for our session.
As the tea steeped and released its delicate aroma, we each fell into our own rhythm—I listened to my songs while my wife read through her emails and messages, fully embracing the moment of stillness.
I also took the opportunity to photograph the serene space, capturing the minimalist yet warm aesthetic of the tea house.
As the evening approached, we decided to have dinner here, keeping the experience seamless. We ordered:
- Tea Smoked Duck Noodles – A beautifully balanced dish where the rich, smoky duck complemented the light and fragrant broth.
- Thunder Rice – A unique Hakka dish, served with a variety of chopped vegetables, peanuts, and a special tea-based broth.
Both dishes carried subtle tea-infused flavors, making for a satisfying and healthy meal.
A Sweet Ending at the Night Market
To round off our eventful day, we took a leisurely stroll through a local night market, soaking in the vibrant sights and sounds. The air was filled with the aromas of street food, the chatter of vendors, and the occasional sound of laughter.
We bought a pomelo, a refreshing and symbolic fruit often associated with prosperity and good health. The sweet citrusy notes were the perfect way to end the night on a light, refreshing note.
Final Thoughts: A Day of Culture, Tea, and Timeless Cuisine
From the dim sum breakfast that started our day to the immersive tea experience at San Chen Cha Zhuang, a nostalgic Teochew lunch at Yew Ming, a relaxing tea session at Purple Cane, and finally, a stroll through the night market, Day 2 in Ipoh was a perfect blend of flavors, culture, and quiet moments of joy.
As we returned to MU Hotel, tired but deeply content, we looked forward to what Day 3 would bring.
Day 3: A Journey Through Caves, Mirror Lake, and Culinary Delights in Ipoh
Our third and final day in Ipoh promised to be an adventure filled with natural wonders, cultural charm, and delectable food. We set out to explore the renowned limestone caves while indulging in some of the city’s best culinary experiences.
Morning Indulgence at Kin Loong Café – The Essence of Ipoh White Coffee
The day began with breakfast at Kin Loong Café, a spot famous for its signature Ipoh white coffee. To get there, we took a cab for RM9, driven by a friendly local who not only provided smooth service but also enthusiastically recommended Mirror Lake as a must-visit attraction. His genuine love for Ipoh and its hidden gems made the ride an engaging start to our morning.
Upon arriving at Kin Loong Café, we were welcomed by its innovative and charming ambiance. The café's design was both modern and nostalgic, capturing the spirit of Ipoh’s rich coffee culture. A striking feature was the uniquely designed water basin, which left a lasting impression on us—a small but thoughtful element that enhanced the café’s character.
Our breakfast was a delightful spread of flavors and textures:
- Signature Ipoh White Coffee – Smooth, aromatic, and rich, a perfectly balanced brew that embodied the essence of Ipoh’s coffee heritage.
- Steamed Bun with Kaya Butter – Soft, fluffy, and infused with the sweetness of kaya and creaminess of butter, a comforting combination.
- Halal Dry Wonton Noodles – A unique twist on the classic dish, prepared with chicken instead of pork, offering a flavorful and satisfying bite.
As we sipped on our coffee and enjoyed the tranquil morning atmosphere, we couldn't help but appreciate how Ipoh’s café culture has preserved tradition while embracing modern flavors.
Exploring the Caves – A Journey into Nature’s Splendor
After breakfast, we ventured into the limestone caves managed by the café, an unexpected hidden gem. As we ascended into the natural cavern, the cool air, towering rock formations, and soft golden light filtering through gaps in the cave ceiling created an almost ethereal experience.
The limestone formations shimmered in shades of amber, gray, and white, sculpted by time and nature. The deeper we walked, the more the play of light and shadows revealed intricate textures and patterns, making every step a mesmerizing discovery.
With no crowds, just the sound of trickling water and the echoes of our footsteps, the cave offered a moment of peace and reflection—a rare and precious find.
A Boat Ride at Mirror Lake – Serenity in Nature
Taking our cab driver’s recommendation to heart, we made our way to Mirror Lake, a hidden natural wonder nestled among limestone hills. The weather was mild, creating the perfect conditions for a serene boat ride across the tranquil waters.
With just the two of us aboard, we drifted along, soaking in the majestic limestone cliffs that rose dramatically from the water’s edge. The lake lived up to its name, perfectly mirroring the sky, trees, and rocks in an almost surreal reflection.
As the boat glided forward, we were captivated by the gentle ripples breaking the reflection, adding a dreamlike quality to the scenery. The refraction of light against the cave walls, combined with the soft breeze and the stillness of the water, made it a deeply calming and breathtaking experience.
It was one of those moments where time seemed to pause, allowing us to simply be present and appreciate the beauty around us.
A Refreshing Break and a Return to the Hotel
Returning to Kin Loong Café, we cooled off with a refreshing lemon drink, letting its citrusy zest awaken our senses after the tranquil ride.
Soon, it was time to head back to the hotel and pack up our belongings. The bags were heavier now, not just with our clothes and essentials, but with memories, tea purchases, and small souvenirs from Ipoh.
A Flavorful Lunch at a Nasi Kandar Restaurant
Before leaving, we had one final meal in Ipoh—a visit to a Nasi Kandar restaurant for a hearty and flavorful lunch.
Our meal included:
- Ayam Nasi – Tender, spice-infused chicken served with fragrant rice, packed with flavors.
- Curry Fish – A dish that combined rich, aromatic spices with the fresh taste of fish, making every bite a delight.
- Salted Eggs and Minced Vegetables – Simple yet perfectly seasoned, adding a satisfying balance to the meal.
- Calamansi and Ching Chow Drinks – Cooling, sweet, and refreshing, providing the perfect contrast to the bold flavors of the food.
The mix of aromatic curries, crisp textures, and refreshing beverages made this meal a delightful send-off before our departure.
A Last Glimpse of Ipoh’s Charm Before the Train Ride
With our stomachs full and bags packed, we set off for the Ipoh train station. On the way, our driver pointed out some remarkable landmarks:
- The World’s Largest Mural of a Man Drinking White Coffee – A stunning street art piece that celebrates Ipoh’s rich coffee heritage.
- The Paper Kite Image on the Wall – A simple yet meaningful depiction of traditional childhood games, paying tribute to Malaysia’s cultural past.
